Julia Barbee is an artist and clothing designer. She operated under the name Frocky Jack Morgan with her deconstructed clothing. She makes perfumes too. Tonight she explains her theory of constructing scent formulations. You can smell the ingredients individually, and then in the blends, to form your own scent theories.
We each have a highly developed olfactory sense with receptors patterned by our genome. There is good evidence we are actually able to distinguish between mirror image molecules. And it is sometimes possible for us to sense a single molecule.
In addition to her perfume formulations, Barbee uses scent and sound as sculptural elements in her artwork. And she is one of Portland's most knowledgeable scent researchers.
"The majority of fragrances are formulated using plant-based or synthetic aromas. However, some perfume houses and manufacturers still use animal-derived notes. These animalic scents can feature ingredients like civet, obtained from the African civet cat; ambergris, a secretion from the sperm whale; and castoreum, a secretion from the Castor beaver. Feeling squeamish yet?
Animalic fragrances, which are often rather pricey because they are more difficult to resource, can range in smell from sweet and woody to furry and leathery to stanky or dirty. As unappealing as that all may sound, when used in small quantities, these types of scents can be described as providing depth, sensuality, and warmth to a scent.
If you're opposed to the use of animal byproducts for whatever reason(s), or the thought of them makes you nauseated, modern fragrances include nods to these sensual, exotic scents, without the real deal. For instance, in lieu of obtaining scent from the musk sacs of the Asian musk deer, synthetic musk, often known as white musk, is used. And while animalic scents are known for being excellent fixatives, or scent boosters, there are other natural ingredients, like resins and woody notes, available to provide a similar effect".
A presentation of the Curiosity Club, you can tune into the free live webcast off the Core77 site or visit the talk and demonstration in person at Hand Eye Supply www.handeyesupply.com/pages/curiosity-club 23 NW 4th 6PM Free
